Sunrise in Caroni

Pre-dawn, 3:15am to be exact, a team of three staff departed the Asa Wright Nature Centre, to make our way south to the Caroni Swamp. With two more members joining the trip along the way. The early morning trip had a great advantage all the way to our destination; there was little or no traffic on the road.

At 3:45am I received my pick-up call from Mukesh (the Head Guide at AWNC), that they were enroute to the pick-up point...and guess what, I was still in bed. No time to waste, because they were only ten minutes way. Our AWNC trekking team was - Janine (Manager) who made the trip wonderful, Marion (Kitchen) newbie birder who ensured we were well fed, Dave (Field Guide) who is an extraordinary birder, and Richard (Tour Guide) who wrote this post. We arrived on the dock 4:10am, in darkness. Allister and his brother of Nanan's Tours were already preparing the boat for the trip.

Our birding tour began even before casting off; our first bird, a Black Skimmer. With gear and breakfast on-board we launched down Canal #9, heading due west. As we made our way through the dark canal, lined with mangrove and a thick canopy overhead, it was lights and action. At the control, was our experienced Field Guide and Captain Allister, equipped with binoculars, umbrellas, and spotlights. We had it all, minus the essential camera (apologies, no bird pics), however thank goodness for camera equipped cell phones. As we avoided the occasional low hanging branches from the canopy, we slowly made our way through the canals.

Not long after leaving the dock, we spot two pairs of red eyes further down the canal; caimans were looking at us, and as we got closer they slipped quietly under the water. Shortly afterwards, continuing down the canal, we passed a Cascabel or the Cook’s Tree Boa making his way up a branch of the mangrove, then a second one, less than a minute later. The sky was still dark, when “liquid star light” fell from the sky...rain. Out came the umbrellas and the raincoats, but just as fast as it came, it was gone, only to resume with greater intensity. Did anyone check the weather forecast? With rain pouring and the skeleton shelter offered by the mangroves, we were concerned that our trek would be ruined.

When the rain subsided, we decided to push forward to see the main attraction. We maneuvered our way to the main stage, the bay area to view the Scarlet Ibis, and all the other wonderful birds that complement the area. On our way there, it was evident that the tide was low, which meant exposed mudflats. Perfect! More birds feeding on the mudflats. The ink blue sky gradually yielded to the gold tones and baby blues; a beautiful play of colours. With the sounds of birds waking, and the Yellow Crown Night Heron and Striated Heron fly overhead, we were awestruck.

We docked approximately 400 metres away from the main island and the exposed mudflats; a ringside seat on the water. In view only via binoculars, were the Snow and Great Egrets, but still too dark for a good look at the Ibis. We had to be quiet. Not being satisfied with our boat position,  Allister decided to take us in closer; V.I.P viewing about 150 metres from the island. Getting there, ruffled some feathers and just before we stopped a few birds flew off. Allister informed us that it was the nesting period, so bird numbers were dwindling. However, we saw so much more than we bargained for. Obviously another advantage of an early tour, is that we had the bay to ourselves, witnessing the dark sky give way to daylight.

The red Scarlet Ibis were now easily visible against the green backdrop; like red bulbs on a Christmas tree. The mudflats were teeming with birds. Joining the Egrets, were the Little Blue Herons, Tri Coloured Herons, then finally coming into the spot light onto the stage were the Scarlet Ibis. There were many Scarlet Ibis at different stages of maturity, the grey, white and scarlet; a healthy mix of these colours feeding on the mudflats. Several flocks seen flying in the background, making their way from different areas in the swamp. We could barely contain our excitement, at our good fortune to see the birds in their habitat during these early hours. We tried to remain as quiet as we possibly could, until a couple of jet powered gas hawks flew directly over head, making their way to the national nesting location, the Piarco International Airport. The birds in the swamp seemed oblivious to this noise. In this perfect setting, with the Northern Range to our left, we dined with the birds...hot coffee and breakfast was served.

Sunrise came and it was time to move on, to contine exploration of the canals to look for birds. We all agreed, it was becoming a great morning. We made our way north of the bay, with many twists and turns, reaching a wooden look-out tower with its platform approximately 12 metres high. Tall enough to have a panoramic view over the canopy of the mangrove. Sadly, due to the state of disrepair we weren't afforded the opportunity to climb the tower. We can only imagine that the view would have been spectacular.

Zoom in to centre of the pic for a closer view of the Silky Anteater...a curled up ball of fur.

Continuing along the canal, camouflaged almost perfectly, we spotted the Common Potoo, which to the inexperienced eye would resemble the end of a dead branch. Making a u-turn, Allister spotted a Silky Anteater, the smallest of the species, sleeping away the morning.

Our trekkers, with Allister...less photographer (Janine).

  

Richard, AWNC blog design and content manager...Mukesh in the background.

Sun is up, time to head back to AWNC.

Heading back to the main canal, we saw woodpeckers, kingfishers, ant-birds, and flycatchers. At the end of this canal Allister made his way onto Canal #9 heading east, which meant, it was almost over for us. Once again, we spotted the dozing Cook’s Tree Boas. Passing the Caroni Visitors’Centre for the second time, we realised the bird watching was not done yet, as we spotted several other species, all added to the list for the morning. On reaching the dock, we all knew that we had an unforgettable experience of a sunrise in Caroni. The early hour and lost sleep, was so worth it...the morning was priceless!

  

....and the birding never stops, not even on a highway layby...Dave and Mukesh spotting birds on the Caroni plains.

Stay tuned folks, more exciting trips and pics coming to you...

Your Intrepid Trekker,

Richard