Asa Wright Nature Centre: North Coast Trek

3:35am on a wet rainy morning, we were on the road again, this time to the north coast of Trinidad, the village Grande Riviere. Our trekking team - Janine, Marion and Richard left AWNC...no extra sleep for Richard. Next pick-up was Dave, aka the Learned Leader, decked off in his flashy fluorescent striped raincoat, patiently waiting in the rain. Our mission and main objective...the Trinidad Piping Guan (TPG) or the Pawi. Grande Riviere (big river), our destination is located along the north coast, and is well known for the proliferation of leatherback turtles nesting on the beach, for the frigidly refreshing Shark River, and the area home to the TPG. The trek took us toward the northeastern end of the island, making our way out of Arima, through Valencia, over to Toco, passing Matura, Salybia, Balandra, Rampagalas, Cumana, then Grande Riviere at 5:20am. Rain was a constant companion that accompanied us to every village...darn we were all hoping for some sunshine...we were getting lots of the liquid version.

We had to be at the preferred TPG viewing spot, highly recommended by Dave, before sunrise...we got there with just some moments to spare. Things didn't turn out the way we expected, after 30 minutes of waiting, other species had us busy on the overcast morning. The elusive TPG was not heard nor spotted. Time ambled on ever so slowly, 60 minutes waiting...looking...listening...yes 1 hour and counting. During that time we checked out the other dominant birds species and the flora. Lo and behold 2 hours went by, we began to dread the worse, what if.... Interestingly enough, we had a villa tour while waiting. Dave, our Learned Leader, ever persistent, kept watch...he never seems to lose hope. The only audible sounds were the grumblings from empty stomachs. We had a looming breakfast reservation at Mon Plaisir. After 90 minutes, he suggested we move to another strategic location, deeper into the forest, perhaps because our cover was busted. We drove in as far as the road took us, a distance of about 1/2 mile...still no Pawi. Breakfast was heavy on our minds. Suddenly, Dave asked Janine to stop! Armed with his scope, we followed him...apparently his vigilant eyes spotted a brief glimpse of the TPG. By the time he tried to lock on the bird, it moved out of range. While Dave was focusing the scope, I got a brief view of the TPG in my binoculars. Before Dave could lock the TPG with the scope, it disappeared deeper into the Grande Riviere forest...the sighting was after 2.5 hours arriving into the area.

Hot on the wings of the TPG, we drove further in, onto a dirt road covered with grass. With Dave all geared up with his mini-sound equipment, hope was returning, we were close to the bird! Dave left us in a clearing, walking further uphill into a dense forested area. We waited as he deployed his 'audible attack'; the Pawi responded and shortly after a couple repetitions the Trinidad Piping Guan flew directly towards us...with the unmistakable sound of his flapping wings. Landing in a tree close by, the wild turkey that sounds like a lawnmower, gave us a fabulous view....the wait was worth it! Giddy with the excitment, breakfast did not matter...we all had a rare close encounter with the marvellous bird. After viewing a couple more birds we eventually left for breakfast, happy to have sighted the TPG...delirious trekkers were we!

We arrived at Mon Plaisir for a late breakfast, quickly settling down and enjoying the beach-front view, as we reminisced on the awesome Pawi spotting. The bird watching continued as we waited for sustenance; spotting shore birds feeding near the river mouth and congregating on a sea blasted rock off the beach.

Satiated by a local, healthy and tasty breakfast, we made on our way to Matelot, crossing the popular Shark River on the way and more birds as we trekked further west along the north coast. On arrival, our lady trekkers became preoccupied, engaging in some serious forest tree seed and river rock collecting. Us guys, just looked on fascinated by their enthusiasm over seeds and rocks...we could do nothing but watch and wait. The collections were carefully packed and stowed away...onwards to our next destination Salybia Beach.

After a little over an hour of driving, we arrived to fulfil our next objective of the trip, kayaking up the Salybia River. The Learned Leader opted out, so we headed over to the Nature Seekers Kayaking facility to check-in and meet the Kayak Guides. Suited up in the life jackets, with our oars, we walked over the edge of the river to launch the kayaks. Janine chose a slick single, with Marion and I in a double. After a short briefing, we launched out up river accompanied by a Nature Seeker Guide. While we struggled to paddle the kayak in sync, Janine looked as if she was training for the XXX 2012 London Summer Olympics...not that the swiftest mattered in this case. The water was tinged with the colour of forest leaves and silt from the showers. We eventually got to a point where a tree fell into the river, which meant that was the furthest we could kayak up river. The peacefulness of the river and lush green banks was the sweet calm after the morning's excitement.

Back on land, we quickly organised to make our way to the next location...lunch was over due. The Valencia or North Oropuche River was the perfect picnic spot. Lunch by the river is a typical 'Trini' tradition, enjoyed with good friends and generous libations. Although we did not have the traditional curry dish enjoyed by the river, our picnic lunch was delicious and satisfying. With time and light slipping by, we headed out and on to our final destination, AWNC. It was a long but gloriously exciting day. Mission accomplished, with all credit to Dave...his persistence, acute vision and amazing hearing enriched our trek with the rare sighting!

Birds Sighted:

-Palm Tanager, -Orange-winged Parrot, -Silver-beaked Tanager, -Guianan Trogon, -Channel billed -Toucan, -Purple Honeycreeper, -Crested Oropendola, -Yellow Oriole, -Black-throated Mango, -Golden-fronted Greenlet, -Long-billed Starthroat, -Great Kiskadee, -Blue Dacnis, -Variegated Flycatcher, -Piratic Flycatcher, -Black Vulture, -Turquoise Tanager, -Streaked Flycatcher, -Violaceous Euphonia, -Common Black Hawk, Bananaquit, -Giant Cowbird, -Plumbeous Kite, -Smooth-billed Ani, -Trinidad Piping Guan, -Magnificent Frigatebird, -Short-tailed Swift, -Little Hermit, -White-bellied Antbird, -Southern Lapwing, -White-Chested Emerald, -Gull-billed Tern, -Common Tern, -Solitary Sandpiper, -Brown Pelican, -Shiny Cowbird, -Southern Rough-winged Swallow, -Carib Grackle, -Grey-breasted Martin, -Yellow-rumped Cacique, -Spotted Sandpiper and -White-winged Swallow.