Onward and Upward: Bat Cave

Late departure from Asa Wright Nature Centre and an anxious Field Guide, Dave, impatiently waiting for the brave team members attempting a strenuous trek to the Tamana Bat Cave. We were all geared up and excited to reach our destination. The drive from AWNC to Tamana was filled with 'picong' and raucous laughter...perhaps nervous from the trepidation of facing a million bats and who knows what else.

We arrived at our destination point, at the base of our climb at 5pm.

The tall boots were already giving the novices trouble...ahem...namely Janine, and we did not even hit the muddy stretch as yet. Winston, always a gentleman, graciously assisted. 

We began our ascent up the steep hill which was very slippery and muddy after the earlier rainfall. Winston, our resident snake expert, carried a guide rope which he tied around himself pulling the ladies upwards...our hero! With a lot of slipping, sliding, huffing, puffing and maybe some silent cursing of whomever had the bright idea to attempt this trek, we were onward and upward!

On the way up we had to stop for at least two rest breaks. 'Wow!' this was turning out to be some climb, not what most of us were expecting.

Covered in mud, mosquito bites, thirsty and breathless, we finally made it...hooray! At the top it was breathtaking. Mist covered us like a thick blanket, even the pictures we attempted to take were shrouded in this magical translucent veil. Conditions were damp, not cold, not hot...we were all drenched.

Dave led us deeper into the cave. Holding on to the rope the others began to climb down into the mouth of the cave.

Bats were everywhere, by the hundreds, by the thousands...so were the huge cockroaches. What am I doing here?? I am not their biggest fan! These cockroaches seemed as big as the small bats themselves. We could not venture as far as we would have liked, because of a large deep pool of water...nobody was up for a swim, especially with guano floating on the water. Yikes...a messy adventure!

Seeing enough of the deep cavern, we climbed back out to sit at the summit, awaiting the exodus of bats, leaving to feed. Within a short space of time, the thin spiral of bats grew into a thick impenetrable spiral of bats, racing to exit the cave, surrounding us and through the tunnel made by the path. The swoosh of wind as the bats sped past was surreal...the multitude of bats rushing towards us without collision, was an awesome thrill!

OUT OF THIS WORLD...SPECTACULAR EXPERIENCE!

  

Thousands of bats flying all around us...a perfect fly-by...their navigation functioning efficiently. Too bad they were not insect eating bats because the ravenous mosquitoes, which seemed as big as the cockroaches and little bats, were launching their assault on us. 

Dave recommended that we remain still, making no sudden moves. Sometimes, we do not always listen to our Learned Leader...we wanted to conduct our own experiment, and began moving our hands directing bat traffic. Dancing with the bats we call it. One was caught with the sudden movement of our hands, and Ganesh lost his bet...pay up dude!

With complete darkness surrounding us, headlights were switched on to make our journey downhill...more mud...more slipping, sliding and laughter. Tired and hungry we reached our vehicles. It was worth the climb.

All aversions to mud, bats and cockroaches were conquered...Janine, did I hear your name?

On to our next adventure..............


Your Bat Dancer & Chief Bat Traffic Controller,
Molly

North Coast Trek

3:35am on a wet rainy morning, we were on the road again, this time to the north coast of Trinidad, the village Grande Riviere. Our trekking team - Janine, Marion and Richard left AWNC...no extra sleep for Richard. Next pick-up was Dave, aka the Learned Leader, decked off in his flashy fluorescent striped raincoat, patiently waiting in the rain. Our mission and main objective...the Trinidad Piping Guan (TPG) or the Pawi. Grande Riviere (big river), our destination is located along the north coast, and is well known for the proliferation of leatherback turtles nesting on the beach, for the frigidly refreshing Shark River, and the area home to the TPG. The trek took us toward the northeastern end of the island, making our way out of Arima, through Valencia, over to Toco, passing Matura, Salybia, Balandra, Rampagalas, Cumana, then Grande Riviere at 5:20am. Rain was a constant companion that accompanied us to every village...darn we were all hoping for some sunshine...we were getting lots of the liquid version.

We had to be at the preferred TPG viewing spot, highly recommended by Dave, before sunrise...we got there with just some moments to spare. Things didn't turn out the way we expected, after 30 minutes of waiting, other species had us busy on the overcast morning. The elusive TPG was not heard nor spotted. Time ambled on ever so slowly, 60 minutes waiting...looking...listening...yes 1 hour and counting. During that time we checked out the other dominant birds species and the flora. Lo and behold 2 hours went by, we began to dread the worse, what if.... Interestingly enough, we had a villa tour while waiting. Dave, our Learned Leader, ever persistent, kept watch...he never seems to lose hope. The only audible sounds were the grumblings from empty stomachs. We had a looming breakfast reservation at Mon Plaisir. After 90 minutes, he suggested we move to another strategic location, deeper into the forest, perhaps because our cover was busted. We drove in as far as the road took us, a distance of about 1/2 mile...still no Pawi. Breakfast was heavy on our minds. Suddenly, Dave asked Janine to stop! Armed with his scope, we followed him...apparently his vigilant eyes spotted a brief glimpse of the TPG. By the time he tried to lock on the bird, it moved out of range. While Dave was focusing the scope, I got a brief view of the TPG in my binoculars. Before Dave could lock the TPG with the scope, it disappeared deeper into the Grande Riviere forest...the sighting was after 2.5 hours arriving into the area.

Hot on the wings of the TPG, we drove further in, onto a dirt road covered with grass. With Dave all geared up with his mini-sound equipment, hope was returning, we were close to the bird! Dave left us in a clearing, walking further uphill into a dense forested area. We  waited as he deployed his 'audible attack'; the Pawi responded and shortly after a couple repetitions the Trinidad Piping Guan flew directly towards us...with the unmistakable sound of his flapping wings. Landing in a tree close by, the wild turkey that sounds like a lawnmower, gave us a fabulous view....the wait was worth it! Giddy with the excitment, breakfast did not matter...we all had a rare close encounter with the marvellous bird. After viewing a couple more birds we eventually left for breakfast, happy to have sighted the TPG...delirious trekkers were we!

We arrived at Mon Plaisir for a late breakfast, quickly settling down and enjoying the beach-front view, as we reminisced on the awesome Pawi spotting. The bird watching continued as we waited for sustenance; spotting shore birds feeding near the river mouth and congregating on a sea blasted rock off the beach.

Satiated by a local, healthy and tasty breakfast, we made on our way to Matelot, crossing the popular Shark River on the way and more birds as we trekked further west along the north coast. On arrival, our lady trekkers became preoccupied, engaging in some serious forest tree seed and river rock collecting. Us guys, just looked on fascinated by their enthusiasm over seeds and rocks...we could do nothing but watch and wait. The collections were carefully packed and stowed away...onwards to our next destination Salybia Beach.

After a little over an hour of driving, we arrived to fulfil our next objective of the trip, kayaking up the Salybia River. The Learned Leader opted out, so we headed over to the Nature Seekers Kayaking facility to check-in and meet the Kayak Guides. Suited up in the life jackets, with our oars, we walked over the edge of the river to launch the kayaks. Janine chose a slick single, with Marion and I in a double. After a short briefing, we launched out up river accompanied by a Nature Seeker Guide. While we struggled to paddle the kayak in sync, Janine looked as if she was training for the XXX 2012 London Summer Olympics...not that the swiftest mattered in this case. The water was tinged with the colour of forest leaves and silt from the showers. We eventually got to a point where a tree fell into the river, which meant that was the furthest we could kayak up river. The peacefulness of the river and lush green banks was the sweet calm after the morning's excitement.

Back on land, we quickly organised to make our way to the next location...lunch was over due. The Valencia or North Oropuche River was the perfect picnic spot. Lunch by the river is a typical 'Trini' tradition, enjoyed with good friends and generous libations. Although we did not have the traditional curry dish enjoyed by the river, our picnic lunch was delicious and satisfying. With time and light slipping by, we headed out and on to our final destination, AWNC. It was a long but gloriously exciting day. Mission accomplished, with all credit to Dave...his persistence, acute vision and amazing hearing enriched our trek with the rare sighting!

Birds Sighted:

-Palm Tanager,  -Orange-winged Parrot,  -Silver-beaked Tanager,  -Guianan Trogon, -Channel billed   -Toucan,  -Purple Honeycreeper,  -Crested Oropendola,  -Yellow Oriole,  -Black-throated Mango,  -Golden-fronted Greenlet,  -Long-billed Starthroat,  -Great Kiskadee,  -Blue Dacnis,  -Variegated Flycatcher,  -Piratic Flycatcher,  -Black Vulture,  -Turquoise Tanager,  -Streaked Flycatcher,  -Violaceous Euphonia,  -Common Black Hawk, Bananaquit,  -Giant Cowbird,  -Plumbeous Kite,  -Smooth-billed Ani,  -Trinidad Piping Guan,  -Magnificent Frigatebird,  -Short-tailed Swift,  -Little Hermit,  -White-bellied Antbird,  -Southern Lapwing,  -White-Chested Emerald,  -Gull-billed Tern,  -Common Tern,  -Solitary Sandpiper,  -Brown Pelican,  -Shiny Cowbird,  -Southern Rough-winged Swallow,  -Carib Grackle,  -Grey-breasted Martin,  -Yellow-rumped Cacique,  -Spotted Sandpiper  and  -White-winged Swallow.

                   

Another superb adventure....there's more to come...stay tuned folks!

Your Intrepid Trekker,

Richard

& 

Your Newbie Birder,

Marion

Sunrise in Caroni

Pre-dawn, 3:15am to be exact, a team of three staff departed the Asa Wright Nature Centre, to make our way south to the Caroni Swamp. With two more members joining the trip along the way. The early morning trip had a great advantage all the way to our destination; there was little or no traffic on the road.

At 3:45am I received my pick-up call from Mukesh (the Head Guide at AWNC), that they were enroute to the pick-up point...and guess what, I was still in bed. No time to waste, because they were only ten minutes way. Our AWNC trekking team was - Janine (Manager) who made the trip wonderful, Marion (Kitchen) newbie birder who ensured we were well fed, Dave (Field Guide) who is an extraordinary birder, and Richard (Tour Guide) who wrote this post. We arrived on the dock 4:10am, in darkness. Allister and his brother of Nanan's Tours were already preparing the boat for the trip.

Our birding tour began even before casting off; our first bird, a Black Skimmer. With gear and breakfast on-board we launched down Canal #9, heading due west. As we made our way through the dark canal, lined with mangrove and a thick canopy overhead, it was lights and action. At the control, was our experienced Field Guide and Captain Allister, equipped with binoculars, umbrellas, and spotlights. We had it all, minus the essential camera (apologies, no bird pics), however thank goodness for camera equipped cell phones. As we avoided the occasional low hanging branches from the canopy, we slowly made our way through the canals.

Not long after leaving the dock, we spot two pairs of red eyes further down the canal; caimans were looking at us, and as we got closer they slipped quietly under the water. Shortly afterwards, continuing down the canal, we passed a Cascabel or the Cook’s Tree Boa making his way up a branch of the mangrove, then a second one, less than a minute later. The sky was still dark, when “liquid star light” fell from the sky...rain. Out came the umbrellas and the raincoats, but just as fast as it came, it was gone, only to resume with greater intensity. Did anyone check the weather forecast? With rain pouring and the skeleton shelter offered by the mangroves, we were concerned that our trek would be ruined.

When the rain subsided, we decided to push forward to see the main attraction. We maneuvered our way to the main stage, the bay area to view the Scarlet Ibis, and all the other wonderful birds that complement the area. On our way there, it was evident that the tide was low, which meant exposed mudflats. Perfect! More birds feeding on the mudflats. The ink blue sky gradually yielded to the gold tones and baby blues; a beautiful play of colours. With the sounds of birds waking, and the Yellow Crown Night Heron and Striated Heron fly overhead, we were awestruck.

We docked approximately 400 metres away from the main island and the exposed mudflats; a ringside seat on the water. In view only via binoculars, were the Snow and Great Egrets, but still too dark for a good look at the Ibis. We had to be quiet. Not being satisfied with our boat position,  Allister decided to take us in closer; V.I.P viewing about 150 metres from the island. Getting there, ruffled some feathers and just before we stopped a few birds flew off. Allister informed us that it was the nesting period, so bird numbers were dwindling. However, we saw so much more than we bargained for. Obviously another advantage of an early tour, is that we had the bay to ourselves, witnessing the dark sky give way to daylight.

The red Scarlet Ibis were now easily visible against the green backdrop; like red bulbs on a Christmas tree. The mudflats were teeming with birds. Joining the Egrets, were the Little Blue Herons, Tri Coloured Herons, then finally coming into the spot light onto the stage were the Scarlet Ibis. There were many Scarlet Ibis at different stages of maturity, the grey, white and scarlet; a healthy mix of these colours feeding on the mudflats. Several flocks seen flying in the background, making their way from different areas in the swamp. We could barely contain our excitement, at our good fortune to see the birds in their habitat during these early hours. We tried to remain as quiet as we possibly could, until a couple of jet powered gas hawks flew directly over head, making their way to the national nesting location, the Piarco International Airport. The birds in the swamp seemed oblivious to this noise. In this perfect setting, with the Northern Range to our left, we dined with the birds...hot coffee and breakfast was served.

Sunrise came and it was time to move on, to contine exploration of the canals to look for birds. We all agreed, it was becoming a great morning. We made our way north of the bay, with many twists and turns, reaching a wooden look-out tower with its platform approximately 12 metres high. Tall enough to have a panoramic view over the canopy of the mangrove. Sadly, due to the state of disrepair we weren't afforded the opportunity to climb the tower. We can only imagine that the view would have been spectacular.

Zoom in to centre of the pic for a closer view of the Silky Anteater...a curled up ball of fur.

Continuing along the canal, camouflaged almost perfectly, we spotted the Common Potoo, which to the inexperienced eye would resemble the end of a dead branch. Making a u-turn, Allister spotted a Silky Anteater, the smallest of the species, sleeping away the morning.

Our trekkers, with Allister...less photographer (Janine).

  

Richard, AWNC blog design and content manager...Mukesh in the background.

Sun is up, time to head back to AWNC.

Heading back to the main canal, we saw woodpeckers, kingfishers, ant-birds, and flycatchers. At the end of this canal Allister made his way onto Canal #9 heading east, which meant, it was almost over for us. Once again, we spotted the dozing Cook’s Tree Boas. Passing the Caroni Visitors’Centre for the second time, we realised the bird watching was not done yet, as we spotted several other species, all added to the list for the morning. On reaching the dock, we all knew that we had an unforgettable experience of a sunrise in Caroni. The early hour and lost sleep, was so worth it...the morning was priceless!

  

....and the birding never stops, not even on a highway layby...Dave and Mukesh spotting birds on the Caroni plains.

Stay tuned folks, more exciting trips and pics coming to you...

Your Intrepid Trekker,

Richard